Buying a kiln is a big deal, and we want you to feel great about your choice. This guide walks you through the questions that matter: what you'll fire, how hot, how big, what electricity you have, and what else you'll need to get going. And if you'd rather just talk it through, call or email us. We love helping people find the biggest kiln their electrical service can handle.
Brand new to pottery? Good news: you don't need a kiln to get started. Our beginner's guide to pottery at home shows you other ways to get your work fired.
Jump to: What you'll fire · Temperature and cones · Size · Industrial · Electrical · Electric or gas? · Venting · Controllers · Accessories · Budget · Brands · Delivery · Ordering · FAQ
1. What Will You Fire?
Start here, because what you make decides almost everything else.
- Ceramics and pottery. We carry kilns for home studios, schools, and technical ceramics, from breadbox-size test kilns to big front-loaders. For most people, an electric kiln is the way to go.
- Glass. If you work in glass, you might need a crucible kiln, an annealer, a torch-work or beading kiln, or a clamshell style for slumping and fusing. Glass kilns usually have elements in the lid to heat flat glass evenly.
- Metal. Metalworkers use kilns for PMC, enameling, and blade tempering, and there are specialized kilns for blade smiths too.
- A bit of both. Dual-media kilns have side elements for ceramics and top elements for flat glass. They're a great fit if you're truly committed to both.
Quick tip: kiln, oven, and furnace all mean the same thing here. Potters say kiln, and metalworkers tend to say oven or furnace. Pottery kilns get hotter than most glass kilns, so a pottery kiln can fire most glass projects, but most glass kilns can't get hot enough for ceramics. Curious? Here's an article from Skutt Kilns on fusing glass in your ceramics kiln.
2. Temperature and Cones
Potters measure temperature in "cones." Cones bend when a kiln has done a certain amount of heat-work, which is a mix of temperature and time.
| Material | Cone range | Temperature |
|---|---|---|
| Low-fire clay and glazes | Cone 06 to 04 | 1828 to 1940°F |
| Mid-range stoneware | Cone 5 to 6 | 2167 to 2232°F |
| High-fire stoneware and porcelain | Cone 10 | 2345°F |
| Glass fusing | n/a | 1300 to 1600°F |
Most potters today work at Cone 6. You get lots of glaze variety, durable functional ware, and reasonable energy costs. Whatever you pick, just make sure your clay, glaze, and kiln all agree.
What cones are for
Think of pyrometric cones as little witnesses that tell you what really happened in your kiln. For a Cone 6 firing, put cones 5, 6, and 7 on the shelf. When it's done, the Cone 6 should be bent over with its tip touching the shelf. If a firing goes sideways, the cones help you figure out whether it was a kiln problem or a clay and glaze problem, so they're a lifesaver for troubleshooting. Our Cone 6 Starter Kit has the cones, stilts, and kiln wash you need to get up and running.
Buy higher than you need
Kiln elements wear out over time, and a kiln rated for Cone 10 will fire Cone 6 more easily and consistently than one rated only to Cone 6. A good rule of thumb is to buy a kiln rated at least one or two cones above where you usually fire. You'll get faster firings, longer element life, and room to experiment later.
3. Kiln Size
Here's the question to ask: not "how much can I fit?" but "what's the biggest single piece I want to fire?"
Small kilns (about 0.25 to 2 cubic feet)
- Perfect for testing glazes, jewelry, small sculptures, learning, and small projects
- A great choice if you're not sure about the commitment yet
- The very smallest plug into a regular 120-volt, 15-amp household outlet. The L&L Plug-N-Fire is one example. The Paragon Caldera, shown below, is only 0.25 cubic feet but fires to Cone 10 on household power.
- Slightly larger high-temperature kilns need an electrician to install a dedicated 20-amp circuit and outlet. At that point, it's usually smarter to get a 240-volt outlet, which opens up many more sizes.
Medium kilns (3 to 7 cubic feet)
- The sweet spot for serious home potters. A 7 cubic foot kiln is the most common size for potters.
- Holds a few dozen mugs or several large bowls per firing
- Needs 240-volt service and a dedicated breaker. A 7 cubic foot kiln typically needs a dedicated 60-amp breaker on 240-volt, single-phase power, which is normal residential service.
A great example is our Skutt KMT1027-3 Kiln Package. It's a turn-key setup with the 7 cubic foot kiln (energy-efficient 3-inch brick), a Wi-Fi touchscreen controller, a furniture kit, and a downdraft vent system, so you get nearly everything in one order.
Large kilns (8+ cubic feet)
- Built for production potters, schools, and big sculptural work
- Need dedicated 240-volt circuits, often 60 amps or more
- Also available for 480-volt, three-phase service, which is common in commercial buildings
- Cost more to run per firing
If you want a big kiln that's easy to load, check out the L&L Easy-Fire eFL front-loading kilns. The series comes in five sizes, from 4 to 13.7 cubic feet, and every model except the eFL1626 at 208 volt single phase is rated to Cone 10. L&L calls it "the first front-loading kiln for the price of a top-loader," and these kilns ship easily by common carrier. The eFL2626 is shown below.
The reality check
Here's something nobody tells you: you'll often fire your kiln partly full. Waiting for a perfectly full load can mean weeks between firings and lost momentum. So buy for your largest planned pieces, and be okay with some half-loaded firings.
Space: follow the manufacturer's clearance requirements. Many kilns need 12 to 18 inches or more on every side for ventilation and heat.
Top-loading or front-loading?
Most of the kilns we carry are top-loading. They cost less, they're easy to move and install, and they hold heat well. Front-loading kilns are easier to load, especially for big sculptural work, but they cost quite a bit more and need special handling for delivery and installation. If you're making typical pottery and can lift comfortably, save your money with a top-loader. If you make large sculptural work or have physical limitations, a front-loader is worth it.
4. Industrial and Technical Ceramics Kilns
Are you making production-scale or technical ceramics, or firing in an industrial setting? Those jobs often need a bigger, more specialized kiln than a studio model, and the setup looks different too. Commercial buildings often have 208-volt or three-phase power, so confirm your voltage and phase early (more on that in the electrical section below).
For industrial and technical ceramics, visit Sheffield Technical Ceramics. It's the place to start if you need:
- 480-volt and higher kilns for industrial power service
- Custom kilns built around your process, your parts, and your space
Not sure whether a studio production kiln or an industrial kiln is the right fit? Call us and we'll help you sort it out.
5. Electrical Requirements: Get This Right
Electrical questions stop more kiln purchases than anything else. Don't worry, it's easy once you know the basics.
- Voltage: most kilns run on 120 volts (a standard outlet) or 240 volts (like an electric dryer). Homes almost always have 240-volt, single-phase service. People often call it "220," but 240 is the right number.
- Amperage: how much current the kiln draws. Bigger kilns need higher-amp circuits, and that decides the biggest kiln you can install.
- Phase: homes are single-phase. Some schools and commercial buildings have 208-volt single-phase or three-phase service.
| Kiln size | Voltage | Amperage | What you need |
|---|---|---|---|
| Very small | 120V | 15 to 20A | A standard 15-amp outlet, or a dedicated 20-amp circuit for slightly larger 120V kilns |
| Small to medium | 240V | 30 to 40A | Dedicated circuit, similar to a dryer |
| Medium to large | 240V | 48 to 60A | Electrician required |
| Large or commercial | 240V, 208V, or 480V | 60 to 100A+ | Professional installation |
Talk to an electrician first
- Get a dedicated circuit breaker. Nearly every electric kiln needs one. Have an electrician install the right breaker and outlet before the kiln arrives, and ask how many amps they can give you for a dedicated kiln circuit. That number tells you the largest kiln you can run.
- Leave some headroom. Size the circuit for about 25% more than the kiln's maximum draw so it doesn't trip on you.
- Don't assume a dryer or stove outlet will work. Voltage, amperage, and plug type all have to match exactly. A few kilns, like the L&L Liberty Bell, are made to run on a standard electric dryer outlet.
- Plan an outlet for your vent if you're installing one (more on that below).
- Schools and commercial spaces: we stock some kilns for 208-volt single-phase and three-phase service. Give us a call for current availability once you know your exact voltage and phase.
Shipping a replacement for a mis-ordered kiln is expensive, so after you order we send you a short online checklist to confirm your electrical service and delivery details. Want a sneak peek? You can preview the checklist here.
Helpful references: the NEMA plug and outlet configurations chart, a primer on electrical service (PDF), and electrical info for installing kilns (PDF).
6. Electric or Gas?
Traditionally, potters have wanted a gas kiln for reduction effects, those earthy, metallic surfaces you get from controlling oxygen during firing. These days, Cone 6 glazes for electric kilns can give you many of the same looks with a lot less work. Gas kilns are also wonderful for raku, since you use them outdoors and many can run on propane.
The trade-off is that gas kilns need outdoor placement or serious ventilation, a gas line, and often permits. For most hobby and school studios, an electric kiln is easier, more versatile, and safer. If you're an experienced potter and gas is calling your name, we carry a full selection from Olympic, Laguna, and others.
7. Kiln Venting
If your electric kiln lives in your home, you definitely want a kiln vent. Firing, especially a bisque firing, creates fumes you don't want to breathe. Even in a garage or outbuilding, a vent is a smart idea because the extra oxygen it brings in gives you a cleaner bisque firing and can even brighten your glaze colors. It also carries away all the moisture coming out of the clay.
Every kiln maker offers a downdraft vent option that works very well. In some situations, you might want an overhead hood vent (shown below) instead of, or in addition to, a downdraft vent. Glass and metal firings rarely need a vent.
8. Kiln Controllers
- Touch screen controllers (like the Bartlett Genesis and TAP Smart) are an upgrade option from every manufacturer we carry. They add Wi-Fi so you can check on your kiln from a free smartphone app, and the built-in diagnostics make troubleshooting a breeze. They're great for teachers, production potters, and anyone who likes to keep an eye on things from the couch. Here's more about the Genesis touch screen controller.
- 12-key digital controllers (like Rampmaster, Set-Pro, and Orton AutoFire) are the most common. They come with handy preset firing curves and several slots to save your own programs. Some small kilns have a simpler 3-key version that does the same things but is a little less friendly.
- Kiln sitters are the old-fashioned mechanical shut-off. A few makers still offer them, but we don't recommend them. Digital controllers are easier, safer, and more versatile.
Already have an older digital controller and it's giving you a headache? Here's how to set up segmented schedules.
9. Furniture and Accessories
The kiln is just the beginning. A few extras make it all work, and you can browse them in our Kiln Room.
- Kiln furniture kit. This is a set of shelves and posts for stacking your work. The furniture kit option on the kilns we sell is a perfect place to start, and we can customize most kits for special needs. Kits are often cheaper than buying pieces separately.
- Shelves: cordierite (standard and affordable), Corelite (lightweight and easier to handle), or silicon carbide (premium, resists warping).
- Posts: pick up a few heights so you can fit different piece sizes.
- Kiln wash: a protective coating that keeps glaze from sticking to your shelves.
- Cones: to check every firing (see above).
- Stilts: they support small pieces and glazed bottoms. Buy extras, since they wear out.
- A kiln vent (see above).
10. What to Budget
Kilns run from small test and PMC kilns all the way up to industrial car kilns, so there's something for every budget. Browse all kilns or our kiln package deals to see current prices. When you're planning, remember the kiln isn't your only cost:
- Electrical work by your electrician (get a quote before you buy)
- Delivery (many kilns qualify for free shipping, so check the product page)
- Kiln furniture and a vent
- Cones, kiln wash, and stilts
Operating costs: a 7 cubic foot kiln firing to Cone 6 uses roughly 45 to 60 kilowatt-hours per firing. Multiply that by your local electric rate to get a good estimate. Larger kilns and higher cones use more.
11. Which Brand of Kiln Should You Buy?
Here's the good news: there's no wrong answer. Every kiln we carry is top quality and will serve you well for years. Some have little details that might suit you better than others, and we're happy to help you find your best fit.
Sheffield Pottery is an authorized retailer of Paragon, Olympic, L&L, Amaco, Skutt, Cone Art, Fredrickson, Evenheat, and Laguna.
What to look for
- Parts availability. Can you still buy elements and parts years from now? Established manufacturers support their older models.
- Controller support. Will the controller keep getting updates and replacement parts?
- Warranty. Compare the terms, and read the fine print on what's excluded.
- Track record. A company that has built kilns for decades is likely to be around for decades more.
12. Delivery and Installation
Small kilns ship by UPS. Most others ship by freight carrier with curbside delivery, which means the driver brings it at least to the end of your driveway. Some drivers will come up a wide, paved driveway or roll the kiln into your garage if the surface is smooth, but that's up to the driver, so be ready to move the kiln yourself.
Here's a handy trick: most top-loading kilns are sectional, so you can take them apart and carry them ring by ring (a two-person job). That's how lots of people get a kiln into a basement or upstairs. If you don't have a loading dock or forklift, choose lift-gate delivery so the truck can lower the pallet to the ground for you.
In many parts of the Northeast, we offer professional inside delivery. Contact us to see if it's available in your area and what it includes.
13. Ready to Order?
- Pick your kiln and place the order on our website.
- Fill out the checklist. We'll send you a short online form about your electrical service and delivery.
- We ship it. If the kiln is in stock, we ship it. If not, we order it from the manufacturer. Lead times vary, so tell us if you're in a hurry and we'll help you find something that fits your timeline.
We also offer kiln parts, service, and installation, plus everything you need for firing: shelves, posts, stilts, Orton cones, and venting systems. And if you'd rather build your own kiln, we carry refractory bricks, castable refractories, kiln cement, kaowool, and insulation, along with books on the subject.
Final Checklist Before You Buy
- What will I fire, and at what cone?
- What's the largest piece I plan to make?
- Has an electrician checked my panel and told me how many amps I can have?
- Can I afford the whole setup: kiln, electrical work, furniture, and vent?
- Can I comfortably load a top-loader, or do I need a front-loader?
- Do I have enough clearance around the kiln, as the manual requires?
- How will I handle delivery and getting the kiln into place?
- Have I thought about venting?
Special considerations
Beginners: start smaller, and pick reliability over fancy features. Production potters: plan for where you'll be in a few years, and think about Wi-Fi monitoring and energy use. Teachers: durability matters most, and schools often require specific safety listings, so check before you buy.
Kiln FAQ
Can I put my kiln in my garage?
Yes, as long as the space is weatherproof and well ventilated. A concrete floor is ideal, and a detached garage or outbuilding means heat and fumes are less of a worry. Keep the kiln away from anything flammable and follow the clearances in the manual.
How long do kiln elements last?
Roughly 100 to 200 firings, depending on how hot you fire, how often, and how you load. Cone 10 wears elements out faster than Cone 6. Expect to replace them every few years with regular use. We carry replacement elements and parts for the major brands.
Should I buy a new or used kiln?
A new kiln comes with a warranty, a current controller, fresh elements, and guaranteed parts. A used kiln can save you a lot, especially an established brand that's still working well, but check the condition of the elements and the wiring before you buy.
Do I need a vent for a basement kiln?
We strongly recommend it. A vent prevents humidity problems and odors and protects you from fumes. Many local codes require venting for basement kilns, too.
Can I fire pottery in my kitchen oven?
Sadly, no. A kitchen oven tops out around 550°F, and pottery and glass need at least 1800 to 2350°F depending on the material. Air-dry clay is fun for kids' projects, but it can't hold water or be used for food. Stoneware and porcelain that are fired to maturity become vitreous, which means they hold water even without a glaze.
Final Thoughts
The "perfect" kiln doesn't exist. There are only kilns that fit your situation well. Match the kiln to what you actually make, get your electrical service sorted out first, and buy from a manufacturer that will still be supporting your kiln years from now.
Your kiln is the heart of your studio, and a good one will turn your work into finished ceramics thousands of times. We're always here to help you choose, so reach out any time.