U.S. Gypsum USG Puritan Plaster 50 lbs Delivered !
NOT ELIGIBLE TO AK or HI : Lower 48 states only
This will be delivered to you via speedy US Postal or UPS.
Depending on your location, 50 pound bags of plasters may ship UPS
or may ship US Postal in two 25 pound units in a strong plastic bag which you can reseal with twist-ties that are included.
The price shown is for the northeast United States (ME, NH, MA,RI, CT, VT, NY and NJ)
Please select "zone B" option if you are not in one of those states.
PURITAN POTTERY PLASTER is a unique, specially designed for use with mechanical clay forming machinery. Absolutely the hardest, most wear-resistant plaster made for molds, and a favorite for jiggering molds.
– Unique, specially-designed plaster for use with mechanical clay-forming machinery.
– Available with or without thermal shock additive.
– Stronger than No. 1 Pottery Plaster.
– Ideal for jiggering applications.
Technical Properties English Metric
Use Consistency (parts of water by weight per 100 parts plaster ) 66 66
1 Hr. Compressive Strength 1,200 psi 8.2 MN/m2
Dry Compressive Strength 2,700 psi 18.4 MN/m2
Total Absorption Capacity 35% 35%
Maximum Setting Expansion .210% .210%
Density Wet 101.0 lb/ft3 1.62 g/cm3
Dry 72.0 lb/ft3 1.15 g/cm3
Set Time (Machine Mix)* 14-24 min. 14-24 min.
General Directions andGuidelines
Preparing the Mix Use potable water at temperatures between 70° and 100° F (21° and 38° C). Since variations in slurry (the plaster and water mixture) temperature produce variations in setting time, it is important to keep both the plaster and water in a stable temperature environment prior to use. The higher the temperature of the water, the shorter the set time. Weigh both the plaster and water for each mix. The water-to-plaster ratio is critical because it governs both the strength and the absorptive capacity of the mold.
Soaking Sift or strew the plaster into water slowly and evenly. Do not drop handfuls of plaster directly into the water. Allow soaking for 1-2 minutes. The plaster should be fully dispersed in the water prior to mixing. Small batches require less soaking than large batches. See bulletin IG503 for specific soaking instructions.
Mixing Mixing the plaster slurry is one of the most important steps in producing plaster molds with maximum strength, absorption, hardness, and other important properties.
Mechanically mixed plasters develop uniform molds with optimal strengths. Plasters can be mechanically mixed through
both batch and continuous processes. Proper blade and bucket dimensions are important for obtaining the best batch mix
(see IG503 for details). Longer mixing times result in higher mold strength and shorter setting times.
Pouring To prevent air entrainment and provide a uniform, smooth surface, careful pouring of the plaster slurry is necessary. Agitation of the filled case mold is a further step used to prevent air at or near the mold surface. Whenever possible, the plaster slurry should be poured carefully in the deepest area so the slurry flows evenly across the surface of the case mold.
Pouring a large amount of slurry directly on the face of the case mold may result in slight densification of the plaster mold at
the point where it strikes the surface of the case. This produces a hard spot, giving uneven absorption.
Drying All pottery molds should be dried as quickly as is safely possible after manufacture so that maximum physical properties can develop. Dry to a constant weight.
The best drying rooms or ovens provide (1) uniform and rapid circulation (minimum of 15-30 fps) of air with no “dead spots”
having little or no air movement, (2) equal temperatures throughout the entire area, and (3) provisions for exhausting a portion
of the air while replacing it with fresh air. High humidity surrounding the drying room or oven inhibits the efficiency of the drying
because the air pulled into the room is incapable of picking up much moisture from the molds.
The maximum temperature at which plaster molds are safe from calcination is 120° F (49° C). With substantial free water in
the mold, higher drying temperatures can be used without difficulty. As drying progresses, the temperature must be reduced to
prevent calcination. The safe drying zone is in the shaded area of graph (below, right). Before removing molds from the dryer,
the temperature should approach that of the area around the dryer to prevent thermal shock.