Tucker's Paper Clay P'Clay®
Ceramic paperclay blend prepared for potters in low-fire white, and mid fire porcelain and stoneware.
Formulated for potters who need a trim and leatherhard
friendly paperclay closer to what one is used to with a traditional
ceramic. It does have a slightly different feel or to get used to
compared to traditional clay.
Good for complex forms like teapots, handle, 's' crack repairs and for detail and carving.
Lends a small increase green strength benefit as the type and amount of paper fiber used in the recipes is less.
The result, when finished and fired with
glazes in a kiln, is nearly indistinguishable from a traditional clay.
However, the finished weight can be less if desired.
Paperclay has distinct technical advantages to traditional clay for makers, artists, and designers.
It can be worked wet on dry at moisture state beyond beyond leather-hard. It can be can be repaired at the bone state also.
It has nearly double the green strength
before fire than traditional clay so It is tough enough to transport
more safely to and from the kilns.
It is strong enough to serve as its own
"armature" so metal support is not needed. It fires lighter weight,
can be porous or non-porous, vitrified, and more.
Shelf life of moist paperclay varies from months to years depending
on clays used and temperatures of storage. Microbes will grow faster on
the terra cotta blends and slower on most porcelain blends.
As with all art materials, those with skin allergies may want to wear gloves and test a small sample first.
Firing Paper Clay in kilns
Fire paperclay as normal to any temperature the base clay is compatible with.
P'Clay can easily take oxidation or
reduction, electric, natural gas, oil, or wood, burnish and terra
siggilatas, pit, saggar, raku, majolica. It can take crystal glazing,
lustre, and china paint. It can It can take fast or slow fire schedules.
It is compatible with glazes compatible with the base clay.
When properly balanced paperclays fired to
maturity they are hard, water tight, and micro voids eventually fill in
and seal up as kiln temperature increases. Test fire a sample to be
sure. Many earthenwares can be fired way hotter than rated- up to cone
5- as paperclay if your kiln is accurate.
The paper leaves the clay early in fire.....
way early 451F. If base clay is bad batch to start no amount of paper
will hide the fact or rescue. The clay ingredients in the recipe need to
be balanced too. Use vented kilns.
One fire paperclay is a practical option because the greenware is
durable enough to handle the ware, to dip briefly into wet glaze, and
not deform. The greenware surface absorb enough water in the glaze to
allow a decent layer of glaze to deposit on the surface. Traditional
clay requires bisque immature state fire to do this.
Biscuit State intermediate Fire:
With traditional clay, an intermediate bisque fire was needed to set
the ware so it could be handled with less risk and to make it absorbent
of water for easier glazing. Paperclays dont require bisque but if they
are bisque fired then, bisque at least to cone to 04 or even 03- not so
called cone 08 temprature some use. The paper fiber will be gone. Bisque
ware of of stoneware and porcelain paperclays that are low bisque
underfired can be fragile.
porcelains, paperclay or not, need real care not to overfire. They need
just as much care in firing, and placement in the kiln as non paperclay
porcelains. When in doubt lower the finish temperature a cone or two
and/or dont soak the kiln at maximum heat either. Beware hot spots that
the computer sensors do not account for or show you. Reduction fire will
also affect the maturing process... usually. Packing and loading of the
kilns is very important also. Some report that porcelain body reduced
celedons shift in color slightly.
* text on this page courtesy of http://www.paperclayart.com/