You are here: Home > Moist Clay : Shipping not included: For Instore Pick-up or Freight > Tucker's Paper Clay P'Clay®

Tucker's Paper Clay P'Clay®

Ceramic paperclay blend prepared for potters in low-fire white, and mid fire porcelain and stoneware.

Formulated for potters who need a trim and leatherhard friendly paperclay closer to what one is used to with a traditional ceramic. It does have a slightly different feel or to get used to compared to traditional clay.

Good for complex forms like teapots, handle, 's' crack repairs and for detail and carving.

Lends a small increase green strength benefit as the type and amount of paper fiber used in the recipes is less.

The result, when finished and fired with glazes in a kiln, is nearly indistinguishable from a traditional clay. However, the finished weight can be less if desired. Paperclay has distinct technical advantages to traditional clay for makers, artists, and designers.

It can be worked wet on dry at moisture state beyond beyond leather-hard. It can be can be repaired at the bone state also.

It has nearly double the green strength before fire than traditional clay so It is tough enough to transport more safely to and from the kilns.

It is strong enough to serve as its own "armature" so metal support is not needed. It fires lighter weight, can be porous or non-porous, vitrified, and more.

Shelf life of moist paperclay varies from months to years depending on clays used and temperatures of storage. Microbes will grow faster on the terra cotta blends and slower on most porcelain blends.

As with all art materials, those with skin allergies may want to wear gloves and test a small sample first.

Firing Paper Clay in kilns

Fire paperclay as normal to any temperature the base clay is compatible with.

P'Clay can easily take oxidation or reduction, electric, natural gas, oil, or wood, burnish and terra siggilatas, pit, saggar, raku, majolica. It can take crystal glazing, lustre, and china paint. It can It can take fast or slow fire schedules. It is compatible with glazes compatible with the base clay.

When properly balanced paperclays fired to maturity they are hard, water tight, and micro voids eventually fill in and seal up as kiln temperature increases. Test fire a sample to be sure. Many earthenwares can be fired way hotter than rated- up to cone 5- as paperclay if your kiln is accurate.

The paper leaves the clay early in fire..... way early 451F. If base clay is bad batch to start no amount of paper will hide the fact or rescue. The clay ingredients in the recipe need to be balanced too. Use vented kilns.

One Fire: One fire paperclay is a practical option because the greenware is durable enough to handle the ware, to dip briefly into wet glaze, and not deform. The greenware surface absorb enough water in the glaze to allow a decent layer of glaze to deposit on the surface. Traditional clay requires bisque immature state fire to do this.

Biscuit State intermediate Fire: With traditional clay, an intermediate bisque fire was needed to set the ware so it could be handled with less risk and to make it absorbent of water for easier glazing. Paperclays dont require bisque but if they are bisque fired then, bisque at least to cone to 04 or even 03- not so called cone 08 temprature some use. The paper fiber will be gone. Bisque ware of of stoneware and porcelain paperclays that are low bisque underfired can be fragile.

Porcelain: Most porcelains, paperclay or not, need real care not to overfire. They need just as much care in firing, and placement in the kiln as non paperclay porcelains. When in doubt lower the finish temperature a cone or two and/or dont soak the kiln at maximum heat either. Beware hot spots that the computer sensors do not account for or show you. Reduction fire will also affect the maturing process... usually. Packing and loading of the kilns is very important also. Some report that porcelain body reduced celedons shift in color slightly.

* text on this page courtesy of